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On from Samarinda, the river is broad and slow, with sawmills and villages peppering the banks. TENGGARONG is 45km and three hours upstream - or just an hour by road. This small country town was, until 1959, the seat of the Kutai Sultanate, whose territory encompassed the entire Mahakam basin and adjacent coastline. The former palace, just up from the docks, is now Museum Negeri Mulawarman (Tues-Thurs, Sat & Sun 8am-4pm, Fri 8-11am & 1.30-4pm; Rp300) on Jalan Diponegoro, and includes statuary from Mahakam's Hindu period (pre-fifteenth century), and replicas of fourth-century conical stone yupa which are Indonesia's oldest written records. Dayak pieces include Benuaq weaving, Kenyah beadwork and Bahau hudoq masks. Tenggarong is a far more relaxed - and cheaper - place to stay than Samarinda. The docks are at the downstream end of town on Jalan Sudirman, which runs 250m north along the river, over a small canal, and on as Jalan Diponegoro past Seni Tepian Pandan marketplace and the museum. Minibuses to Samarinda orbit the roundabout near the docks, and the tourist information centre is at the back of the marketplace. Accommodation includes the clean and welcoming Penginapan Anda II, near the canal at Jalan Sudirman 63 (tel 0541/61409; $5-10), and the more luxurious Timbau Indah, 250m south of the docks towards Samarinda at Jl Muksin 15 (tel 0541/61367; $10-15). Overlooking the river about 50m beyond the museum, Rumah Makan Tepian Pandan has great Chinese and Indonesian food .
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