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The river narrows perceptibly as it continues to KOTA BANGUN , a large, well-supplied town, four hours from Samarinda by bus. Ferries dock on the north bank, where you'll find meals and beds either off to the left at Penginapan Mukjizat ($5-10), or ten minutes' walk along to the right at the comfortable Sri Bangun Lodge ($10-15). Beyond Kota Bangun, there's a definite thickening of the forest along the banks as the river enters the marshy lakelands, and you might see big black hornbills, symbols of the Dayak people. Around four hours from Kota Bangun and fourteen from Samarinda, MUARA MUNTAI sits due north of Danau Jempang, the town raised over the swamps on piles and boardwalks. Turn left from the dock and Penginapan Nita Wardana is about 50m along on the right, with Sri Muntai Indah just a bit further; both have tiny rooms with fans and essential mosquito nets ($5-10). You can visit Benuaq settlements across the lake by ces speedboat (Rp20,000).
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