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Borneo's second longest river, the Mahakam , winds southeast for over 900km from its source far inside the central ranges on the Malaysia border, before emptying into the Makassar Straits through a multi-channelled delta. Closest to Samarinda, the Lower Mahakam is the most touristy area, and there's an established three-day circuit taking in the historic town of Tenggarong and Benuaq Dayak settlements at Tanjung Issuy and adjacent Mancong . With a week to spare, scanty forest and less cosmetic communities inland from the Middle Mahakam townships of Melak and Long Iram are within range; ten days is enough to include a host of Kenyah and Benuaq villages between Long Iram and Long Bagun , where the Upper Mahakam begins. Whatever your plans, bring as little as possible with you. A change of clothes, wet-weather gear, decent footwear, a torch and first-aid kit are adequate for the Lower and Middle Mahakam, as there are accommodation and stores along the way. Don't bother with a tent or cooking gear. There are no banks on the Mahakam capable of changing money. Guides are essential if you can't speak the language; hire one in Samarinda.
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