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Polluted, noisy and sprawling, SURABAYA is the second largest city in Indonesia, and the major port of East Java. With time and effort the city is comprehensible and even somewhat enjoyable, but for most tourists Surabaya is nothing more than a transport hub. If you do want to linger, the Chinese and Arab quarters to the north of the city centre and the zoo and museum to the south are the most interesting sights.
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