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About 1km north of Taman Fatahillah lies the historic harbour of Sunda Kelapa (Rp350), which, established during Pajajaran times, grew to become the most important in the Dutch empire. Although the bulk of the sea traffic docks at Tanjung Priok today, a few of the smaller vessels, particularly some picturesque wooden schooners, still call in at this 800-year-old port. You can either walk here from Taman Fatahillah (about 20min) or hail an ojek (motorcycle taxi). From the port, cross over the bridge to the west of the harbour and turn right at the nineteenth-century watchtower, the Uitkijk, originally built to direct shipping traffic to the port. Here, buried in the chaotic Pasar Ikan (fish market) that occupies this promontory, you'll find the entrance to the excellent Museum Bahari , or Maritime Museum (Tues-Thurs & Sun 9am-3pm, Fri 9am-2.30pm, Sat 9am-12.30pm; Rp1500), housed in a warehouse that was built in 1652 for spice, pepper, tea, coffee and cotton. The highly informative museum charts the relationship between the Indonesian archipelago and the sea that both divides and surrounds it, beginning with the simple early fishing vessels and continuing through the colonial years to the modern age. All kinds of sea craft, from the Buginese pinisi to the kora-kora war boat from the Moluccas can be seen here. Head south, keeping the Kali Besar canal on your left, until you come to the ornate 200-year-old wooden drawbridge, Jembatan Pasar Ayam . The streets south of here were once the smartest addresses in Batavia, and the grand Dutch terrace houses still stand, the most famous being the Chinese-style Toko Merah (Red Shop) at no. 11 Jalan Kali Besar Barat - the former home of the Dutch governor general Van Imhoff. The Batavia bus station lies on the eastern side of the canal, from where you can catch bus #938 back to Jalan Thamrin.
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