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Just over 40km south from Pasuruan, the small villages of Tosari and Wonokitri sit 2km apart on neighbouring ridges of the Bromo massif foothills. These are excellent choices for early access to Gunung Penanjakan and are less tourist-oriented than Cemoro Lawang. Microlets that go to one also go to the other, and both villages have accommodation. The road from Pasuruan divides 500m before Tosari: the right fork leads up to the market area of that village, and the left fork twists up to the next ridge and Wonokitri. Wonokitri is a compact, shabby town with good views, while Tosari is more spread out, with an attractive ridge to the northeast that leads to the Hotel Bromo Tosari. It's better to take a minibus direct from Pasuruan, rather than changing at Pasrepan , though that's also possible. In TOSARI , Penginap an Wulun Aya, Jl Bromo Cottage 25 (tel 0343/57011; $5-10), is small and clean with good views. Mekar Sari, Jl Raya 1 (no phone; $5-10), is a small rumah makan and has a few simple rooms and a good roof terrace. WONOKITRI features several places to stay. At the time of writing, the only place that was signed was Pondok Wisata Surya Nuta ($5-10), a concrete, charmless building. Far better choices are Kartiki Sari (no phone; $5-10) with simple rooms, and Bromo Surya Indah (tel 0343/571049; $5-10), which is just before the Balinese-style village meeting hall, about 300m before the national park checkpost at the far end of the village; rooms have attached bathroom, clean bedding and good views. At the national park checkpost and information centre at the southern end of Wonokitri you pay the admission fee to the park (Rp2100).
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