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LEWOLEBA is a comatose but picturesque little place, sitting on a palm-lined bay under the shadow of the smoking volcano Ile Api. It comes alive once a week for the Monday market , which trades till around midnight. The village is set a little way back from the bay, with the market as its focal point. On the seafront is a beautiful stilted Bajo fishing village and a small fish market. About 1km west of town is the harbour, for all boats in and out of Lewoleba and the decrepit bemo terminal . The harbour master's office opposite the port is always shut. The airport is 3km north of town (charter a bemo), and the Rejeki losmen is the Merpati agent. The new losmen Lile Ile (under $5), also known as Mister Jim's, is exactly halfway between the harbour and the market on the bay side of the road; it's a real gem, with neat cottages, sensational views and superb meals. The losmen Rejeki (under $5) is the first building you encounter by the market when you're coming from the harbour. It's the old standby, a decent place that does terrific food: try the spesial dengan rusa (deer meat special). The bank in Lewoleba will not change money in any form. The post office south of the market is efficient, and the Telkom office about 1km west of the market is open 24hr.
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