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TIRTAGANGGA 's main draw is its lovely Water Palace, but the town is also surrounded by beautiful paddy fields offering pleasant walks and glorious views of Gunung Agung and Gunung Lempuyang. The refreshingly cool temperatures make this one of the best day-trips from Candi Dasa (take a bemo to Amlapura then change on to one for Tirtagangga, which takes 10 minutes), and there's accommodation too. The Water Palace (daily 7am-6pm; Rp1100, camera Rp1000) was built in about 1947 by Anak Agung Anglurah, the last rajah of Karangasem, and is an impressive terraced area of pools, water channels and fountains set in a garden. You can swim in an upper deeper pool (Rp4000) or a lower, shallower pool (Rp2000). Nyoman Budiarsa's shop, next to the Genta Bali Warung, sells souvenirs plus a printed map of local walks (Rp2500), can arrange guides for local treks and also arranges climbs up Gunung Agung . There is a moneychanger and a postal agent on the track to the Water Palace from the main road. There is plenty of accommodation . Rijasa (tel 0363/21873; $5-15), across the main road from the track leading to the Water Palace, is a good-value place with a neat row of bungalows in an attractive garden. Good Karma (tel 0363/22445) has tiled, clean rooms set in a small garden in the paddy fields; take the track on the left of the main road, above Good Karma resturant that follows the water-channel, then take the first path to the left. Prima (tel 0363/21316; $5-10) is almost 1km north of the village with clean, light rooms and great views of Gunung Lempuyang. Puri Sawah (tel 0363/21847; $10-20), about 100m beyond the Water Palace, on a track heading left from a sharp turn in the road, has a few well-furnished rooms with verandahs in a small, peaceful garden; more expensive ones have hot water. For food , try the tourist menu at Good Karma, above the car park, and the Rice Terrace Coffee Shop, attached to Puri Sawah, with good food in a lovely location in the fields.
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