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To the east of Singaraja lies a string of temples with unusual, sometimes humorous, carvings. They can all be reached by bemo from Singaraja's Penarukan terminal. Eight kilometres east of Singaraja, a small road north takes you 200m to the pink sandstone Pura Beji of SANGSIT , justly famous for the sheer exuberance of its carvings. About 400m to the northeast across the fields from Pura Beji, carvings at the Pura Dalem cover the whole range of heavenly rewards and hellish punishments, including a lot of soft pornography that could count as either. Back on the main road, 500m east of the Sangsit turning, you come to the road that leads 4km to JAGARAGA and the famous carvings at Pura Dalem Jagaraga temple. The very lively carvings here depict life before and after the Dutch invasion in 1848 - pictures on the left show village life before the Dutch, next to these are the Dutch arriving, and on the right-hand side is the much-photographed carving of two Dutch men driving a Model T Ford, being held up by bandits. The most spectacular of the temples in the area is Pura Meduwe Karang at KUBUTAMBAHAN , 12km east of Singaraja and 500m west of the junction with the Kintamani road. It's built on a huge scale, and supports 34 figures from the Ramayana as well as numerous very human carvings of Balinese villagers. In the inner courtyard you'll find one of the most famous carvings on Bali: a cyclist, wearing floral shorts, with a rat about to go under the back wheel, apparently being chased by a dog (possibly the Dutch artist WOJ Nieuwenkamp, who first visited Bali in 1904). The tiny Sarah and Dewa's Losmen (no phone; under $5) is a homestay with two simple rooms in a family compound, in the village of Bungkulan which joins on to the western edge of Kubutambahan. Look out for a small sign by the Pura Desa pointing south off the main road; it's a hundred metres or so up on the right - you'll probably need to ask.
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