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According to legend, Gunung Agung was created by the god Pasupati when he split Mount Meru (the centre of the Hindu universe), forming both Gunung Agung and Gunung Batur. At 3014m, the superb conical-shaped Agung is the highest Balinese peak and an awe-inspiring sight. The spiritual centre of the Balinese universe, it is believed that the spirits of the ancestors of the Balinese people dwell on Gunung Agung. Villages and house compounds are laid out in relation to the mountain, and many Balinese people prefer to sleep with their heads towards it. Directions on Bali are always given with reference to Agung, kaja meaning "towards the mountain" and kelod meaning "away from the mountain". If you want to climb Gunung Agung, there are two routes, both long and hard. While the weather precludes climbing at certain times of the year, it's also forbidden to climb Agung during the myriad religious festivals, effectively ruling out March and April altogether. At any time, you will have to make offerings at temples at the start and on the way. The dry season (April to mid-October) is the best; don't even contemplate it during January and February, the wettest months. It is essential to take a guide with you as the lower slopes are densely forested and it's easy to get lost. Wear strong shoes, and take a torch, water and snacks. From Pura Pasar Agung , on the southern slope of the mountain, near Selat, it's at least a three-hour climb with an ascent of almost 2000m, so you'll need to set out at 3am or earlier to catch sunrise. This path does not go to the actual summit, but to a point about 100m lower, from where you can see Rinjani, the south of Bali and Gunung Batukau and look down into the 500-metre-deep crater. For this route, you can arrange guides at Muncan, 4km east of Rendang, at Tirtagangga, 5km north of Amlapura and also further afield in Toya Bungkah . In Muncan , contact the highly experienced guide I Ketut Uriada at his small shop in the centre of the village - there's a sign outside - or ask anyone for directions; he may be able to arrange a bemo charter to Pura Pasar Agung and can advise on local accommodation. Expect to pay US$30 for a guide for one person, US$40 for two people, US$50 for three. In Tirtagangga , Nyoman Budiarsa arranges transport and food from his small shop, on the right as you head north through the town. He charges US$30-40 per person, depending on numbers. From Besakih , the climb is longer, taking five to six hours, and you'll need to leave between midnight and 2am. The path starts from Pura Pengubengan, the most distant of the temples in the Besakih complex, and takes you up to the summit of Agung with views in all directions. The descent is particularly taxing and takes four to five hours. Guides for this route can be arranged at the tourist office in the Besakih temple complex; US$50 is the going rate.
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