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At the eastern end of Amuk Bay, CANDI DASA is a centre for snorkelling and diving, and a pleasant base from which to explore the east of Bali, including the nearby traditional village of Tenganan . However, throughout the 1980s, Candi's offshore reef was crushed to produce lime for the building boom and the beach was left so exposed that it simply washed away. Large sea walls now protect the land, and enormous jetties protrude into the sea in the hope, largely justified, that the beach will build up against them. The tourist developments have spread 8km west around the bay, through the villages of Senkidu , Buitan and Manggis , where the beach is still a respectable size. To get to a decent beach from Candi itself, follow the road past Bunga Putri at the end of Forest Road up onto the headland and then down onto the black sand on the other side. Just off the coast of Candi Dasa, a group of small islands provides excellent spots for experienced divers (currents can be strong), including walls, a pinnacle and the dramatic Tepekong Canyon. Candi Dasa is also an ideal base from which to arrange diving trips to Padang Bai, Nusa Penida, Amed and Tulamben (US$55-80) and to take a course. There are many local dive operators , including Baruna with a counter in town (tel 0363/41185) and one at Puri Bagus Candidasa (tel 0363/41217); Divelite (tel 0363/41660); Maoka Dive Centre (tel 0363/41563); Pineapple Divers at Candi Beach Cottages (tel 0363/41760); Spice Dive at Balina Beach Resort (tel 0363/41725), the only southern office of this well-regarded north-coast operator; and Stingray Dive Centre in both Senkidu (tel 0363/41268) and in central Candi Dasa (tel 0363/41063). It is important to follow the guidelines for choosing a dive operator . Long-distance Denpasar (Batubulan terminal)-Amlapura buses and bemos all serve Candi Dasa. Shuttle buses from the main tourist destinations serve Candi Dasa, and Perama (tel 0363/41114; 8am-9pm) has an office with departures three times daily to Kuta and the airport (Rp15,000), Sanur (Rp15,000), Ubud (Rp10,000), Padang Bai (Rp5000) and Senggigi on Lombok (Rp25,000); daily departures to north and east Bali and to other destinations on Lombok. You can also book through to Bima (Rp65,000) and Sape (Rp70,000) on Sumbawa. Simpatik have twice daily departures to Ubud (Rp12,500) and Sanur (Rp19,000). There is a centrally located tourist office in the main street close to the lagoon, but it seems to have somewhat erratic opening hours. Asri Shop provides a poste restante service - mail should be addressed c/o Asri Shop, Candi Dasa, PO Box 135, Karangasem, Bali. The wartel (daily 6am-11pm) is next to the Kubu Bali Restaurant. Several bookstores in Candi, including Candidasa Bookstore, sell new and secondhand books.
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