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The major tourist draw in the east of Bali is undoubtedly the Besakih temple complex (daily 8am-5pm; Rp1100; you will also be asked for donations at the entrance to the complex and at individual temples), the island's most venerated site, situated on the slopes of Gunung Agung, Bali's holiest and highest mountain. Besakih is the yardstick by which to measure all Balinese temples, and the stark grandeur of the place makes a lasting impression. Tours start arriving around 10.30am, after which the sheer volume of tourists, traders and self-styled guides make the place pretty unbearable - come early in the morning for the best atmosphere. Tourists are forbidden to enter any of the temples in the complex, but you can see a lot through the gateways and over walls. Bring a sarong, or rent one for Rp1000-2000. The complex consists of 22 separate temples spread over a site stretching for more than 3km. The central temple is Pura Penataran Agung , built on seven ascending terraces, and comprising more than fifty structures and plentiful carved figures. Start here, and then wander at will: the meru (multi-tiered shrine roofs) of Pura Batu Madeg , rising among the trees in the north of the complex, are particularly enticing; if you feel like a longer walk, Pura Pengubengan , the most far-flung of the temples, is a good couple of kilometres through the forest. Without your own transport, the easiest way of getting to Besakih is to take an organized bus tour , but anything offering less than an hour at the temple is hardly worth it. By public transport , you have to approach from Klungkung: bemos leave from Terminal Kelod and from the small terminal just north of the main road in the town centre, although you may have to change at Rendang or Menanga, the turn-off for Besakih. There are plenty of bemos in the morning but they dry up in both directions in the afternoon, and after about 2pm or 3pm, you'll have trouble getting back. There are no public bemos beyond Menanga to Penelokan further north, or between Rendang and Bangli. Accommodation options near Besakih are very limited. The Lembah Arca hotel (tel 0366/23076; $5-10), on the road between Menanga and Besakih, a couple of kilometres before the temple complex, has simple rooms in an attractive garden, but it gets chilly at night; the price includes breakfast and blankets. There are also a few unauthorized and unsigned lodgings (under $5) behind the shops and stalls lining the road from the car park up to the temple; ask at the tourist office , on the corner of the car park beside the road at Besakih (no phone; daily 8.30am-3.30pm), for details. These places are very simple, with few private bathrooms, but are useful if you get stranded, if you're climbing Gunung Agung or want to explore the site early or late.
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