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From Culik , 10km beyond Tirtagangga, the junction of the road around the far east and the Amlapura-Singaraja road, it's 3km to the picturesque, sleepy fishing village of AMED , with a one-kilometre-long black-sand beach and hills rising up behind. About 2km beyond the village, Congkang 3 Brothers ($10-15) has simple bungalows and across the road there is a beach-side restaurant. A few hundred metres further round the coast, Bamboo Bali ($5-10) is a good budget choice, although it's a short walk to the beach. There are just three bungalows on the hill in an attractive garden and with great views from the verandahs and a small restaurant. Less than 1km further on, the village of JEMELUK is the diving focus of the area: a sloping terrace of coral leads to a wall dropping to a depth of more than 40m and there are plenty of fish. Eco-Dive, attached to Dharma Samadi restaurant and bungalows (under $5), arranges local dives and snorkelling. One kilometre further around the coast, Amed Beach Cottages ($10-15) is situated by the beach with various standards of smart bungalows, and a pool. Mega Dive Centre is here (in Denpasar tel 0361/754165), offering introductory dives, dives for certified divers and PADI courses. Just beyond this, the Kusumajaya Indah ($5-10) has attractive bungalows in a lovely garden that slopes down to the rocky beach. The next bay along cradles the small village of BUNUTAN , a peaceful and rural spot just behind the local beach. On the climb up out of the village look out for the tiny Warni's Warung ($5-15) on the cliff side of the road, the perfect spot for a sunset drink. The views to the northwest are stunning and they have a couple of simple bungalows. LIPAH BEACH , although still very peaceful, is the most developed beach. Wawa Wewe ($5-15) and Tiying Petung ($5-10) stand side by side and are great, relaxed places offering occasional live music, a range of Western and Indonesian dishes and simple accommodation. There is another headland and several kilometres between here and the bay at SELANG , almost 12km from Culik, where Good Karma ($10-25) is currently the easternmost accommodation. It is right on the black-and-white-sand beach, and it offers good snorkelling. There are various standards of accommodation and deep, relaxing verandahs set in a gorgeous garden - an oasis in the midst of a parched landscape.
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