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Rajasthan's largest group of early Jain and Hindu temples lies on the outskirts of the small town of OSIAN , 64km north of Jodhpur. Half-hourly buses (1hr 30min) drop you on the main road south of town; the railway station (served by the Jodhpur-Jaisalmer train, 2hr 30min out of Jodhpur) is 1km west. Alternatively, get a group together and book a Jeep through RTDC (Rs650 for up to five people, or Rs950 for four people and a guide).

The oldest group, the Vishnu and Harihara temples , built in the Pratihara period of the eighth and ninth centuries, are right by the bus stop. All three retain a considerable amount of decorative carving. Where the main road from Jodhpur to Phalodi bends round to the right, the smaller road straight ahead leads to the town centre, where you'll find the Sachiya Mata temple , at the top of a large staircase, overlooking the whole of Osian, and still used for worship. This temple dates back to the twelfth century, and features a hall for large gatherings. The main shrine, to Sachiya, an incarnation of Durga, is surrounded by smaller, earlier ones to Ganesh and Shankar (an aspect of Shiva), and, on the right, to Surya and Vishnu.

As you leave the Sachiya Mata temple, the third group of temples, rather more spread out, lies roughly straight ahead. The first is the Mahavira Jain temple , built in the eighth century, and renovated in the tenth. The gateway embellished with figurines was added in 1015. Twenty elegantly carved pillars hold up the main portico. The usual rules (no leather, don't enter during menstruation) apply. Fifty metres beyond is the Surya temple , surrounded by gargoyle-like projecting elephants. Its inner sanctum contains an image of Surya, flanked by Ganesh and Durga. Another 50m brings you to the Sun temple , where the carvings around the doorway have suffered the ravages of time (and

graffiti), but those in the surrounding niches are very fine. A little way behind it is a massive Pratihara period step-well, currently under restoration.

For accommodation , you've a choice between a very basic guesthouse run by a brahmin priest opposite the Mahavira temple (tel 02922/74232; Rs100-300), or a more luxurious tent at The Camel Camp , straddling a sand dune on the village outskirts (book in advance through The Safari Club in Jodhpur on 0291/437023; Rs300-900).

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