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South of the city through an imposing triple gateway, Gadi Sagar Tank , built in 1367, was once Jaisalmer's sole water supply. Its north and east banks are flanked with ghats and temples whose sandstone bricks glow with a warm deep ochre in the evening light. This peaceful place is the focus of the festival of Gangaur in March, when women fling flowers into the lake and pray for a good husband, and the Maharawal heads a procession amid a pomp and splendour unchanged for generations.

The delightful little Folklore Museum near the tank's main gate (daily 8am-7pm; Rs10) has some

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interesting displays of folk art, much of it religious. The locally styled wooden statues of Krishna and Radha, musical instruments, paintings and travelling temples ( kavad ) are all from the personal collection of its proprietor, who will probably be on hand, and happy to talk about them. You'll find much the same selection of local curiosities at the Desert Culture Museum (daily 8am-7pm; Rs10), opened by the same family at larger premises next to the tourist office on the main road.


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