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The main highway and broad-gauge train wind in tandem east from Jaisalmer across the desert, separating at the small junction settlement of PHALODI , almost exactly midway between Jaisalmer and Bikaner. This scruffy salt-extraction colony would be entirely forgettable were it not the jumping-off place for one of Rajasthan's most beautiful natural sights. Sheltered by a swathe of soft yellow dunes, the village of Keechen , 4km further east on the opposite side of the main road, hosts a 7000-strong flock of demoiselle cranes ( Anthropoides virgo ), who migrate here each winter from their breeding grounds on the Central Asian steppes. Known locally as kurja , the birds are encouraged to return by the villagers, who scatter specially donated grain for them to feed on twice each day - a custom which has persisted for 150 years or more. At feeding times (6.30am & 3.30-4pm), the flock descends en masse on a football-pitch-sized patch of level ground just outside the village, where you can watch and photograph them at close quarters. Should you arrive in the middle of the day, head into the nearby dunes, being careful not to scare the birds, or pick your way north through the village to the small reservoir where thousands of cranes congregate between feeds. Watching them circle in noisy, undulating formations overhead, or stepping gingerly across the sands, has to be one of the great spectacles of the Thar region, and you shouldn't miss the chance to call here if you're passing. From Phalodi, the best way to get to Keechen is to rent a bicycle from one of the stalls near the bus stand - a pleasant, mostly flat four-kilometre ride on well-surfaced roads. Alternatively, jump in a Jeep for Rs100; Ambassador taxis queue outside the railway station. If you want to store gear while you're crane-watching, ask at the Hotel Chetnya Palace (tel 02925/23945; Rs100-400), next to the bus stand, which has left-luggage lockers in a rear-side dorm. The Rs25 fee will entitle you to a bed in the same room, but they also have more comfortable en-suite rooms for Rs150-300, the pricier ones with air coolers. The hotel's bright, clean restaurant at the front of the building is the most hygienic place in town to eat , serving inexpensive parathas and rice-plate vegetarian meals to order, as well as the usual hot and cold drinks. If you're only stopping for a couple of hours en route to or from Jaisalmer, check bus times before you head off to Keechen, as services can be sporadic.
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