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Though most camel treks start in Jaisalmer, a handful of travellers prefer to begin their safari out in the desert at the village of KHUHRI , just 1km from the dunes. It can be reached on three daily buses (90min) from the local bus stand in Jaisalmer. The village harbours a handful of basic guesthouses. The oldest is Mama's (tel 02992/9267 5423; Rs200-900), which offers overpriced "traditional" huts with common bathrooms or plainer, cheaper rooms for Rs325. Khuri Guest House (tel 02992/75444;

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Rs100-300), near the bus stand, is a better budget option, offering shared or en-suite shower-toilets. This is one of the most accessible places in the region to see traditional desert architecture . Many of the houses are still made of mud and thatch instead of concrete, and their exterior surfaces are beautifully decorated with ornate white murals. If you're lucky enough to be invited inside one, you'll see some superb moulded mud shelves and fireplaces, inlaid with mica- and mirror work.


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  • Khuhri Caste Wells © Tom Carter India Travel Photographer on Flickr ...
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