Heading north along Samudra for around 4km you'll pass through a string of fishing hamlets before eventually arriving at a point where the sea merges with the backwaters to form a salt-water lagoon. Although only thirty minutes' walk from the Ashok , the sliver of white sand dividing the two, known as Pozhikkara beach , is a world away from the headlong holiday culture of Kovalam. Here, the sands are used primarily for landing fish and fixing nets, while the thick palm canopy shelters a mixed community of Hindu fishermen and Christian coir makers.
The tranquil village of PACHALLOOR , behind the lagoon, is a good alternative base to Thiruvananthapuram or Kovalam. There are two guesthouses here, including the original and idyllic Lagoona Davina (tel 0471/380049, fax 462935, davina@india.com ; Rs2500 and upwards; full board available), whose six individually decorated en-suite rooms open onto the water. Two cheaper cottages ($65 in high season) lie behind; lazing in a hammock under the palms, you can watch villagers paddling past in their long dug-outs, and sand-wallahs diving to fill buckets with silt. The guesthouse also organizes its own backwater trips (Rs350 per head for 2hr). The food served at Lagoona is exceptional - a fusion of authentic Keralan village dishes and European nouvelle cuisine . You can also have an Ayurvedic massage or take yoga lessons with the resident doctor, and there's a boutique with exquisite outfits made by Davina herself. If you book in advance, you'll be met at the
airport, or take an auto-rickshaw 6km along the highway towards Kovalam, bearing right along the "by-pass" where the road forks (just after the Thiruvallam Bridge). After another 1km or so, a sign on the right of the road points through the trees to the guesthouse. The other guesthouse at Pachalloor, the Beach and Lake Resort (tel 0471/381055; Rs900-2500), lies across the water from Lagoona on the beach side, and has five rooms, but no restaurant and little atmosphere.
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