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The ghost city of FATEHPUR SIKRI , former imperial capital of the great Moghul emperor Akbar , straddles the crest of a rocky ridge, 40km southwest of Agra. Built between 1569 and 1585, it has lain silent for almost four centuries; by 1600, its meagre water supply had proved incapable of sustaining the population, and Akbar shifted the court to Lahore. Now deserted, it is almost perfectly preserved - a masterpiece in sandstone, glowing in subtly changing shades of pink and red as the day progresses and the light fades. The plan to move the court here was conceived by a ruler who, tired of the crowds and congestion of Agra, wanted to create a new capital that was both an appropriate symbol of imperial power, and a sympathetic backdrop for the philosophical debates and artistic pursuits that were his passion. An astute diplomat as well as a gifted military strategist, Akbar consolidated his territorial gains in the north and west by promoting a policy of religious tolerance developed through discussions with representatives of the major faiths. He abolished the much hated poll-tax on non-Muslims ( jizya ), and was the first Moghul ruler to marry a Hindu (a Rajput princess from Jaipur). By gaining the allegiance of local rulers (often through marriage), he was also able to install the most efficient system of revenue collection ever seen in the empire, and it was this that enabled Akbar to build Fatehpur Sikri - a palace complex that would become the very embodiment of his unorthodox court, fusing Hindu and Muslim artistic traditions. Hindu buildings such as Birbal's Palace and Jodhbai's Palace mingle with the pavilions and halls of the grand court, while the Jami Masjid , the only building of exclusively Muslim derivation, houses one of the most exquisite mausoleums of the Moghul period, the marble Tomb of Sheikh Salim Chishti . Fatehpur Sikri was originally intended to be joint capital with Agra; although it receives only a fraction of the visitors of its rival, the stunning elegance of its palace, mosque and courts ensure that it remains as powerful a testimony to Moghul grandeur. As long as you don't mind modest amenities (and salty water), it's also an enjoyably atmospheric place to stay, with a scattering of simple guesthouses huddled in the village below the ruins. The one drawback is the overall filthiness of the bazaar area, which many travellers find too high a price to pay for the awesome sight of the Buland Darwaza at sunrise
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