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Given the Moghul tradition of building magnificent tombs for men and women of high status, it comes as no surprise that the mausoleum of the most distinguished Moghul ruler was one of the finest and most ambitious structures of its time. Akbar's mausoleum (daily dawn to dusk; Rs235), a majestic composition of deep-red sandstone and cool marble designed by the emperor himself and modified in 1605 by his son, Jahangir, borders the roadside at Sikandra, 10km northwest of Agra. Rickshaws charge at least Rs60 to make the round trip, or you could hop on any bus bound for Mathura from the Agra Fort bus stand. Although neither as grand nor as awesome as the indomitable Taj, this stately structure possesses a serenity sometimes absent among the throngs of tourists at Agra's most visited monument. It also marks the important transition in Moghul design after Akbar's death, when his bold, masculine red stone monuments were superseded by more ethereal and sensuous marble buildings, epitomized and perfected in the Taj Mahal itself. The most overwhelming feature of the complex is its huge south gate, Buland Darwaza , "Gateway of Magnificence" - so high that it obstructs any view to the tomb beyond. Surmounted by four tapering marble minarets, and overlaid with marble and coloured tiles set in repetitive geometrical patterns, it bears the Koranic inscription "These are the gardens of Eden, enter them and live forever." Buy a ticket at the office set into the left face of the gate, then walk through to the gardens, divided by wide paved walkways into four equal quadrants in typical Moghul fashion, and enclosed by high walls. Along the paths, friendly long-tailed langur monkeys laze in the sunshine and groom one another, and black buck roam through the tall grasses, just as they do in the Moghul miniature paintings dating from the era when the tomb was constructed. In the centre of the gardens, directly in front of Buland Darwaza, the broad-based square mausoleum has arcaded cloisters along each side and pavilions enhanced by delicate marble domes rising above its centre. A high marble gateway in the southern face draws attention to meticulous lattice screens shielding a small vestibule, once painted with rich sea-blue frescoes and Koranic verses. From here a ramp leads to a subterranean crypt, where Akbar's grave lies sprinkled with rose petals and bathed in a cool yellow light
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