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Twenty-eight kilometres north of the city at the terminus of bus #16, which leaves from Minggong Lu just outside the train station, the Yellow River Park (daily 8am-6pm; Y10) is really a stretch of typical Chinese countryside, incorporating villages and allotments, that you have to pay to get into because it has a view of the Yellow River. There's a pretty hill, Mang Shan, but none of the sights listed on the map you can buy at the entrance - dilapidated temples and statues, including a huge image of Yu the Great - is worth it. You can spend an afternoon here walking around the hills at the back of the park, or riding - there are plenty of men hiring out horses, and an escorted trot around the hills for an hour or two should cost about Y20. From the hilltops you have a good view over the river and the plain of mud either side of it, flat and devoid of incident except for the electricity pylons crossing it. It's hard to imagine that in 1937, when Chiang Kaishek breached the dykes 8km from the city to prevent the Japanese capturing the rail line, the Yellow River flooded this great plain, leaving more than a million dead and countless more homeless.
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