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The town of Tsetang , 183km southeast of Lhasa, just south of the Tsangpo River, and the nearby valleys of Yarlung and Chongye are steeped in ancient history. Legend claims the first Tibetans originated on the slopes of Gongpo Ri to the east of Tsetang and the first king of Tibet descended to the Yarlung Valley upon a sky-cord from the heavens. This king then fathered the first royal dynasty, many members of which are buried in the nearby Chongye Valley and, in the fourth century, the first Buddhist scriptures fell from the sky upon the first king's palace at Yumbulakhang . To the west of Tsetang the walled combined village and monastery of Samye is not only the most ancient in Tibet, but also a lively and interesting place to spend a day or two.

Tsetang and Samye are easily accessible via a good road and public transport from Lhasa. However, there is no public transport in the Yarlung and Chongye valleys although getting around by hitching lifts on tractors is feasible for the Yarlung Valley. Transport out to Chongye is more limited. The best way to explore is to hire a vehicle and driver in Tsetang to take you to Chongye and Yumbulakhang on a day trip. For vehicle rental try the Tsetang Hotel first, then the Gesar Restaurant opposite - after hard bargaining expect to pay around Y350 for the day.

Unfortunately, accommodation in Tsetang is not particularly good and the permit situation is unclear. You should check in Lhasa whether you currently need a permit for Tsetang. The PSB in Tsetang should issue permits to Yarlung, Chongye, Samye and Lhamo Lhatso but at the time of writing refused to do so unless you were on an organized tour with your own transport and guide. If you want to organize a tour from Lhasa you'll be quoted Y2000-2500 for a three-day/two-night tour to the Tsetang area.

Tsetang is also the starting point for a trip to Lhamo Lhatso , a sacred lake 115km northeast of Tsetang where visions on the surface of the water are believed to contain prophecies.

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Regents searching for the next incarnations of high lamas come here for clues and Dalai Lamas have traditionally visited for hints about the future. Buses leave the main Tsetang intersection on Monday and Friday for Gyatsa (returning the next day). At Gyatsa you have to walk across the bridge and pick up another ride up to Chokorgye Monastery and then trek for around five hours up to the lake. You should bring your own food and be prepared to camp unless you're intending a long day's walking.


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Tsetang Tibet
I took this video after climbing up onto the ridge just above the dzong at Tsetang. A tibetan family is burning juniper branches and praying below.
YOM BU LA KHANG Rock Palace TIBET
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