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In the 1950s and 1960s Wanchai was known throughout east Asia as a thriving red-light district, catering in particular to the needs of US soldiers on leave from Korea and Vietnam. Hong Kong's most famous fictional character, Suzy Wong, a prostitute from Richard Mason's novel The World of Suzy Wong, resided and worked here. Nowadays, however, the soldiers have gone and Wanchai has lost most of its raunchy air. Nevertheless, the restaurants and bars are still certainly worth a visit, but as there aren't any real sites to see, it's probably most interesting to come in the evening. In the far west of the area, just north of Gloucester Road on the corner of Fenwick Street and Harbour Road, is the Hong Kong Arts Centre (ten minutes' walk from Wanchai MTR), which is worth dropping in on for its art galleries, films and other cultural events. You can pick up a free copy here of the monthly magazine Artslink, which has a detailed diary and reviews of what's happening on the art scene in Hong Kong. There are also two good cafes here, both with harbour views. Immediately to the east of the Arts Centre stands a vast new set of gleaming modern buildings that have changed the face of Wanchai beyond all recognition. The Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre on the seafront is probably the biggest and best of its kind in Asia. When there are no events going on, you can visit the centre's extraordinary interior, which includes the hall where the official handover ceremonies took place. The centre's extension (the part with the curving roof) was originally designed to be completed for the annual meeting of the World Bank and International Monetary Fund, in September 1997, but the opening date was brought forward to accommodate the handover ceremonies in June 1997 - however, the roof still leaked! Two upmarket hotels, the Grand Hyatt and the Renaissance Harbour View, are part of the same complex. Immediately inland, across Harbour Road, soars one of the tallest edifices in Hong Kong, the 78-storey Central Plaza , the golden, glowing cladding of which is visible from far away to the north in Kowloon. You can reach Central Plaza and the Exhibition Centre by walking along raised walkways from Wanchai MTR station, or from the ferry terminal immediately in front. In contrast to these hi-tech marvels near the seafront, inland Wanchai is a solidly functional area packed with residential highrises and shopping streets with just a scattering of curiosities. On Queen's Road East, south of the tramlines on Johnston Road, is the little Hung Sheng Temple , built into a hillside. This old brick building, smoke-blackened and hung with ancient draperies, was once a shrine by the sea; now, rather sadly, it has been marooned far inland by reclamation. There's a tiny flower and bird market opposite the temple, on Tai Wong Road West. A couple of hundred metres east of the Hung Sheng Temple, you'll pass the quaint, whitewashed and unexpectedly ancient Wanchai Post Office , built in 1912 and only closed finally in 1992. A short walk from here, along Stone Nullah Lane running south from Queen's Road East, is the Pak Tai Temple , where you can see craftsmen making fantastic little burial offerings out of bamboo and coloured paper, including cars, houses and aeroplanes.
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