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Gulangyu Island was Xiamen's foreign concession until World War II, and architecturally it remains more or less intact from that time. In summer and at weekends the island is packed and accommodation can be hard to find but, with neither cars nor bicycles, the atmosphere is always restful and exploring the island can easily fill up a day or more of your time - in fact it is the nicest place in Xiamen to base yourself. The boat for the island departs from the small pier opposite the Lujiang Hotel. On the way out to the island, the lower deck is free (the upper deck is Y0.5) and on the way back the lower and upper decks cost Y1/1.5 respectively. Boats run from early morning to midnight and the short ride gives you delightful views of the waterways. Initially, Gulangyu's narrow tangle of streets can be a confusing place to find your way around, but the small size of the island (less than two square kilometres) means this is not really a problem. The island centre (a couple of small shopping streets with a bank , a post office, a few restaurants and shops) is a couple of minutes' walk to your right as you disembark from the ferry. The various sights are scattered around the island and any stroll through the streets will uncover plenty of architectural attractions, overhung with flowers and blossom at all times of the year. It's not possible to walk a complete circumference of the island as a section to the northwest is off-limits to tourists. If you head southeast from the jetty (left as you disembark), you'll pass a number of grand old buildings, including the former British and German consulates. The road continues on to the island's rocky eastern headland, now enclosed by Peacock Garden (Y15), containing a gigantic granite Statue of Koxinga dressed in grand military attire and staring meaningfully out towards Taiwan, the island he once heroically recaptured from foreign colonialists. Shortly beyond the garden, the road heads west towards the middle of the island, bringing you to a sports ground, with the Gulangyu Guesthouse facing on to it. This is a superb old place with magnificent trees and grand colonial mansions and worth strolling around even if you're not staying here. Inside the middle building the original 1920s decor and furniture are intact, with dark wooden panelling, a billiard hall and a terrace with rattan chairs. President Nixon stayed here on his 1972 trip and it's still the haunt of Chinese VIPs. You can have a peep inside, though for security reasons you might be chased away if you're not a guest. Due south, on the southern shore, is the Shuzhuang Garden (daily 7am-8pm; Y10), which is full of flowers and has some nicely shady areas for taking tea right by the sea, as well as a music saloon. Running west from the park the clean, sandy beach is very tempting for swimming when it's not too packed out. The beach is overlooked to the north by the Sunlight Rock (daily 8.30am-5pm; Y40 includes cable car ride), the highest point on the island (93m) and something of a magnet for the large numbers of local tourists who take a cable car up to the platform for the views right over the entire island. At the foot of the rock (and covered by the same entrance ticket) is the Koxinga Memorial Hall , which contains various relics including Koxinga's own jade belt and bits of his "imperial" robe; unfortunately there are no English captions.
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