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Twenty kilometres east of Jilin is Songhua Hu , a popular local beauty spot. The deep lake is very attractive, set in a large forested park and surrounded by hills. A taxi here should cost about Y40, and there are rowing boats for rent for Y5 an hour. In 1992 an off-duty soldier reported being attacked by a dragon while boating here - it's a risk you'll just have to take. Unlike most Chinese scenic attractions, Songhua Hu seems big enough to absorb the impact of all its visitors, and even on weekends it's possible to escape to some quiet, peaceful spot. At the lake's southern end is the huge Fengman Dam , a source of great local pride. Although in recent years the Songhua River's level has dropped by half - a result of extensive tree felling in its catchment area - the river floods every year, and at least a couple of the dam's four sluice gates have to be opened. With ruthless Chinese pragmatism, cities in Dongbei have been graded in order of importance in the event that the annual floods ever become uncontrollable. Jilin, as it has a hydroelectric power station, is judged to be more important than Harbin, so if the river does ever flood disastrously, all four sluice gates will be opened, Jilin will be spared, and Harbin will be submerged. In winter, the area around the lake is great for skiing and sledding . Closest to Jilin city, on bus route #338, is Zhuque Shan (Rosefinch Mountain), a park long known for its hiking and temples but now also for its skiing. A taxi here from the city, using the meter, will cost Y35 from the train station. After you're dropped off, you have to walk 1km to the park, though entrepreneurs on horseback or dogsleigh will take you in for Y10. You then buy an entrance ticket (daily dawn-dusk; Y3). There are two small slopes here, one for sledding and one for skiing. The sleighs are two downhill skis nailed together with a piece of raised plywood, and really fly if you get a running start and bellyflop. Equipment is available for rent, with boots big enough for foreigners (boot sizes up to 45/US size 12, skis to 190cm). It's Y20 for a day of sledding, or Y30 for skiing, equipment included (Y100 deposit required). There's a good restaurant here that seats guests on a kang, a raised heated platform which provides a nice vantage point over the hill. Foreigners are a rarity here, and the staff and patrons are a lot of fun. Skiing lessons are free; just look helpless and a staffer will come to the rescue. Jilin also has two first-class ski areas, replete with chairlifts, though transport and lift tickets plus rental will set you back double and triple the cost of Zhuque Shan, respectively, at Songhua Hu Hua Xue Chang and Beida Hu Hua Xue Chang . To get to Songhua Hu, take bus #338 to the small district of Fengman (30min; Y3), from where you'll have to take a short taxi ride to the ski resort. A taxi here from Jilin city (26km) is about Y50. Transport to the biggest ski area, Beida Hu, 56km southeast of Jilin, is best served by taxi. A one-way trip to this resort will be around Y100. Packages and transport are also available through Jilin's tourist agencies.
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