Into The Reserve
Changbai Shan is a long way from anywhere, and the easiest way to get there is probably by booking one of the three-day tours arranged through CITS in Jilin (at the Dongguan Hotel) costing Y620 (Y420 for Chinese), which include park entrance fees and accommodation, and stop at all the major must-sees, including Tian Chi. Alternatively, you can make your approach from any number of directions by public transport , among them a new, simplified journey from the eastern Jilin city Yanji , a four-and-a-half hour bus ride north of the mountain (this is the route the CITS tour out of Jilin follows). However, the roads can still be rough. You can also travel in by train to Yanji or as far as Baihe, a village at the base of the mountain. Jilin Province is rife with rail lines and highways, and most places are well-served by train, bus and long-distance taxi. Buy a train timetable at the station in Beijing (Y8) and plan your itinerary knowing that there are many ways in and out of Changbai depending on your goals. The most convenient approach is from the north via bus from Jilin to Baihe (7hr; Y50). Chinese tourists often fly from Beijing to Yanji (5 weekly, 1hr 40min) and then take a bus on to Baihe (3hr; Y20). If you're coming from Changchun , get an overnight train (#619, leaving at 10.07pm) east to Yanji, then catch the three-hour bus onwards to Baihe. You can also approach from Dandong to the south: two buses depart daily for Tonghua at 6.30am and 8.50am (8hr; Y35). The bus zigzags through rural China along roads that are little better than dirt tracks, a rough but engrossing ride. If you're coming straight from Beijing , overnight train #537 runs to Tonghua, leaving at 5.20pm and arriving at 11.37am. TONGHUA is a bore, so as soon as you arrive buy a ticket for the train to Baihe. Train Y257 leaves Tonghua at 9.05pm and gets to Baihe at 5.40am. Additionally, train #645 leaves Tonghua at 8.41am and arrives at 3.55pm.
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