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The small island of KOH S'DACH (population 2306) is the fishing capital of Cambodian waters, just off Koh Kong province in the Gulf of Thailand. If you're rushing between Sihanoukville and Thailand, there's little here to warrant an overnight stop, but if you've time on your hands, the area is worth exploring. Koh S'dach itself (King's Island) takes its name from the legend of a visiting monarch who sheltered here with his soldiers in ancient times. They had been fighting off invaders from across the sea, but were low on supplies and in desperate need of fresh water. Finding no source of fresh water on the island, the King summoned the powers of the gods and miraculously fresh water began gushing forth from an undiscovered spring. The royal spring can be found near the passenger boat port. The island's other attractions include the friendly monks at Wat Koy Koh , and the tiny beach from where it's possible to swim to Koh K'maoch (Ghost Island). Locals will tell you that a few lucky officials from Lon Nol's administration fled here to escape the Khmer Rouge. A US navy ship then ferried them to safety. It is not clear whether they took the time to snorkel around the nearby coral . They would have needed the foresight to bring their own snorkels and masks, as none are available on the island. The real reason for stopping in Koh S'dach is to get out in a boat to explore the cluster of islands and the mainland nearby. Koh Samai, Koh Samot, Koh Chan and Koh Totang are all within a boat's row. The remote mainland village of Boy Japon, named after the Japanese logging concession located here, is easily reached from here. The Japanese have long since gone, taking with them most of the primary forest, but a long narrow beach stretches out from the village, and a small waterfall can be found a short walk along the inland path, a cool spot for a dip. A boat to the mainland is 20B each way, while a fishing boat to the islands is open to negotiation. Guesthouse accommodation can only be found on Koh S'dach, although it is possible to camp on any of the beaches if you have a hammock, mosquito net, food and water. Make it clear to the fisherman when you want to be picked up. Koh S'dach Guest House (under $5) on the main path from the port has rooms with comfortable double beds or dorm beds for 100B. Further down the path, a small blue sign in Khmer points left down an alleyway to a rustic guesthouse (under $5) over the water. Note that all transactions on the island are in baht . The pathway from the port to the small market area is the centre of activity on the island. Fishermen gather to gamble at street-side games of cards, dice, or playing-card pool. There are also plenty of places to buy simple food here, and of course the fresh seafood is fantastic. The only way to get here is by one of the speedboats, which stop briefly as they surge between Krong Koh Kong and Sihanoukville or Sre Ambel. The fare is a flat 300B to or from any of these destinations and takes about two hours.
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