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If, for some reason, you can't make it to Angkor, you might consider a trip to TONLE BATI (daily 8am-4pm; $2), some 40km south of Phnom Penh and the nearest Angkorian site to the capital. The site consists of two temples located near Tonle Bati's lake, Ta Prohm and Yeay Peau. The temples are small by ancient Cambodian temple standards, but impressive nonetheless. Many legends surround their construction, but it is thought King Ta Prohm had them built in the twelfth century. Ta Prohm is set in a garden of palms and tamarind trees. Approaching from the eastern entrance, don't miss the carved stones either side of the path, one depicting The Churning of The Ocean of Milk, the other an episode from the Ramayana. Inside, there is only one intact Buddha image, the Khmer Rouge having destroyed most of the other artefacts. You'll need to take a torch to examine the bas-reliefs in the smoky darkness, and to find the upright lingam phallic symbol in the central chamber. In the southern chamber a headless Vishnu statue presides over a local fortune-teller who will tell you what you want to hear for a few thousand riel. The smaller temple of Yeay Peau is to the north of Ta Prohm, dwarfed by the new, colourful buildings of Wat Tonle Bati. Inside, a headless Madame Peau (Ta Prohm's mother) stands next to a seated Buddha. The lakeside to the northwest of the temples is a popular spot for lunch and a swim. You can rent a platform ( p'deh tdeuk) for the whole day for 3000r, or 2000r just for lunchtime. There's a restaurant and food stalls nearby. Inflatable tyres are available to splash around in the lake for 500r each. To get to Tonle Bati by moto ($7) take the smooth National Route 2, and after about 32km turn right onto a bumpy track, then right again for the temples. A taxi for the day will cost about $25. Buses from the central market cost 2500r each way, or Capitol organizes a day tour for $5. It's quite feasible to combine the trip with a visit to Phnom Chisor , further south on Route 2.
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