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For many visitors to Swaziland, the highlight of the eZulwini Valley is Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary (daily dawn-dusk; E20), with its relaxed atmosphere and attractive, game-filled plains. The name Mlilwane refers to the "little fire" that sometimes appears when lightning strikes the granite mountains. As well as offering good game viewing and activities, Mlilwane is an easy alternative to staying in Mbabane or on the eZulwini strip. Given its popularity, it's wise to book ahead if you intend to stay overnight. The reserve holds a special place in the history of wildlife conservation in Swaziland; it was here that Ted Reilly first realized his dream of a sanctuary for Swaziland's fast-disappearing wildlife . Mlilwane's animals are mainly herbivorous, and include giraffe, zebra, bountiful numbers of antelope and the sanctuary's emblem, the warthog. There's also the occasional crocodile and hippopotamus, which means you still need to be cautious if viewing the game on foot, bike or horseback. Over 100km of road enables you to drive through the park to view game. Alternatively, guided walks and drives are available through the park office at the main restcamp; the best of the self-guided walking trails is the Macobane Hill Trail, a gentle, three-hour hike through the mountains. The more adventurous can climb to the top of Nyonyane, the "Execution Rock", which rises so prominently in the north of the reserve. The office can supply maps for all these. There are also guided mountain-bike tours (E60 per hour) and horseback trails (from E75 per hour), both fairly relaxed ways of taking in the park's attractions. For those with a little more horseback experience, various overnight trails involve camping in caves and rustic trail camps in the more remote parts of the reserve; for the really committed, the Lusoti "Real Africa" Horse Trails, organized by Swaziland Big Game Parks in association with Hawane Horse Trails, offer a seven-night cross-country expedition taking in Mlilwane, Mkhaya Game Reserve and remote rural homesteads. For details, contact Big Game Parks Central Reservations. If you're feeling less energetic, you can pass the time watching hippos wallowing in the hippo pool, overlooked by the Hippo Haunt restaurant at the main restcamp. The hippos are fed every day at 3pm.
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