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North of Church Square , busy Proes and Struben streets are filled with cut-price stores, black shoppers and minibus taxis heading for the townships. While other parts of central Pretoria are fairly safe to walk around if you take the normal precautions, take extra care if you're wandering in this direction, as gangs have been known to work these streets, and a number of tourists have been mugged here.

Head across Bloed and Boom streets for the National Zoological Gardens (daily 8am-6pm; R20), which are spacious and surprisingly good, housing rare species of antelope, a white rhinoceros, and a wide selection of South American as well as African animals. A cableway (R8) carries you right over the zoo on both sides of the Apies River, while there are also a total of some 6km of trails, and you can even rent golf cars if you're feeling lazy (R60 per hour). It's well worth trying to book on one of the night tours (R40; tel 012 328 3265), starting at 6pm on Wednesdays, Fridays and Saturdays, when you'll see some of the zoo's freakiest creatures at their most active. Next door, the Pretoria Aquarium and Reptile

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Park (entrance included with Zoo entry charge) is less impressive, but nonetheless has plenty of beasts, some very weird and highly poisonous.

West of here lie the scruffy streets of Marabastad , the city's first "non-white" area. While you're here, don't miss the intricately decorated Hindu Mariammen Temple , right next to the market. The area, while fascinating, can feel quite intimidating, and you may feel more comfortable exploring here with a guide.


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