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South Africa's most famous township, SOWETO (short for South West Townships) is a place of extreme contrasts. The area has the only street in the world where two Nobel Peace Prize winners once lived, yet suffers one of the highest rates of murder and rape in the world; it is the richest township in South Africa, but has some of the most desperate poverty; it is the most political township, yet has the most nihilistic youth. Soweto is huge, stretching as far as the eye can see, with estimates of its population ranging between three and four million. Like any city of that size, it is divided into a number of different suburbs , with palpably middle- and upper-class neighbourhoods among them. At first sight, it appears an endless jumble of houses and shacks, overshadowed by palls of smoke. Once inside, parts of it have a villagey feel, especially if you are exploring on foot, and unlike anywhere else in Jo'burg, Sowetans will often stop to greet you or to chat, regardless of your colour. Most of Soweto's tourist highlights are famous for historical reasons and are physically unimpressive. That history, however, is enthralling, not least because here it is told with a perspective and context rarely found in the rest of South Africa. For visitors it means an insight not just into a place famous from 1980s news bulletins for funerals and fighting, but into a way of life most Westerners have rarely, if ever, encountered. A visit to Soweto with one of the many tours is the single most popular attraction in Johannesburg. Where once these had a whiff of daring and originality, a well-trodden tourist trail has developed, and unless you're content to follow the herds of minibuses and coaches around the conventional sights, it's well worth using an operator who mixes the highlights with lesser-known sights. And where once taking yourself to Soweto would have meant a display of bravado bordering on foolhardiness, it's now possible to drive there, though you'll need good navigational skills (the lack of obvious landmarks amidst the mile upon mile of bungalows can be highly confusing), and to stick to the main sights - exploring less-visited areas by yourself, or going after dark, isn't recommended for safety reasons. However, your time will be your own, and you'll be able to check out the growing number of bars and eating places catering to tourists. Taking a minibus taxi to Soweto is more confusing than dangerous, as it isn't always easy to ascertain which part of the township it's heading for, for which reason it's not recommended. The best place to pick up information about visiting on your own is from the new Soweto Tourism Centre at 49 Madlala St in Orlando East (Mon-Fri 8.30am-4.30pm; tel 011 938 4929), located very close to Soweto's one distinctive landmark, the huge cooling towers of a former electricity plant.
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