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With its mosques, medersas and fondouks, combined with a mile-long network of souks, there are enough "sights" in Fes El Bali to fill three or four days just trying to locate them. And even then, you'd still be unlikely to stumble across some of them except by chance or through the whim of a guide. In this - the apparently wilful secretiveness - lies part of the fascination, and there is much to be said for Paul Bowles's somewhat lofty advice to "lose oneself in the crowd - to be pulled along by it - not knowing where to and for how long ? to see beauty where it is least likely to appear". If you do the same, be prepared to really get lost. However, despite what hustlers may tell you, the Medina is not a dangerous place, and you can always ask a boy to lead you out towards one of its landmarks: Bab Boujeloud, Talaa Kebira, the Kairaouine Mosque, Bab Er Rsif or Bab Ftouh. Making your own way in purposeful quest for the souks and monuments, you should be able to find everything we've detailed - with a little patience. If you want to avoid coinciding with tour groups, especially in summer, try visiting the main sights between noon and 2pm, while the groups stop for lunch. Before you start, it's not a bad idea to head up to the Merenid tombs on the rim of the valley, where you can get a spectacular overview of the city and try to make out its shape. For a break or escape from the intensity of the Medina, head to the Boujeloud Gardens (officially retitled "Jardins de la Marche Verte"; open 9am-6pm), a real haven and with a pleasant open-air cafe, to the west of Bab Boujeloud. There are four principal entrances and exits to Fees El Bali: Bab Boujeloud . The western gate, easily identified by its bright polychrome decoration and the hotels and cafes grouped on either side. Bab Er Rsif . A central gate, by the square (and car park) beside the Mosque Er Rsif, this is a convenient entrance, just a few blocks below the Kairaouine Mosque. Bus #19 and bus #29 run between the square and Avenue Mohammed V in the Ville Nouvelle, #19 continuing to the train station, #29 to Place de l'Atlas. Bus #27 runs  © 2003 by Rough Guides Ltd. as trustee for its Authors. Published by Rough Guides. All rights reserved. Rough Guides name is a trademark of Rough Guides Ltd. Buy the book here!
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between the square and Dar Batha. Bab Ftouh . The southeast gate at the bottom of the Andalous quarter, with cemeteries extending to the south. Bus #18 runs between here and Place de l'Istiqlal (near Bab Boujeloud) and there is also a petit taxi rank. Bab Guissa . The north gate, up at the top of the city by the Hotel Palais Jamai : a convenient point to enter (or leave) the city from (or heading to) the Merenid tombs. Petits taxis are available by the gate.
Your Tips For Fes El Bali
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