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In these animal-rich national parks, the first realization of where you are - among real, uncaptured wildlife - is truly arresting. Which parks to visit can seem at first a pin-in-the-map decision: any of them can provide a store of amazing sight and sound impressions. Amboseli and Tsavo are the two most accessible, with ever-busy game lodges, well-worn trails, large numbers of tourists in the high seasons, and large, if brutally diminished, herds of elephant. Amboseli, with its picture-postcard backdrop of Mount Kilimanjaro and guaranteed elephants , is an instant draw, but the flat topography and lack of vegetation cover means you'll be sharing the stunning vistas with dozens of other safari vehicles. Tsavo, in contrast, is huge enough to escape company completely, except at Mzima Springs , for which it's worth being part of the crowd if necessary. Maasai Mara has the most fabled reputation, with horizons of wildlife on every side. Somewhat isolated in the west, it requires a specific, usually there-and-back visit, but it's well worth the effort (and perhaps the cost), especially during the yearly wildebeest migration that takes place sometime between July and November (at its most spectacular in August). The Mara is also the place to see lions - lots of them. The downside is its popularity: you'll find safari vehicles around almost every corner. The Samburu/Buffalo Springs/Shaba complex and Meru , on the north side of Mount Kenya, have different varieties of animals, such as northern races and species of giraffe, zebra, antelope and ostrich. Samburu - dry, thorny and split by the Ewaso Nyiro River - is increasingly popular and noted for its crocodiles and leopards , albeit baited ones. Meru, however, is perhaps the most beautiful Kenyan park - isolated, verdant and surprisingly unvisited.
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