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The once-fashionable spa of Helwan is now grossly polluted by a gigantic iron- and steelworks that exploits power from the Aswan Dam and iron ore from the Western Desert. The steelworks wreak eco-death on a nineteenth-century Japanese Garden (daily except Tues 9am-6pm; GBPE5) - complete with Buddhas and a pagoda - five blocks east from Helwan metro station (turn left as you exit); ask for Ganenit el-Arbaine Harami. One hundred metres south of Ain Helwan metro station, one block back, a tacky Waxworks Museum (daily 9am-4pm; GBPE5) portrays such moments in Egyptian history as the death of Cleopatra, and Salah al-Din's meeting with Richard the Lionheart. The sulphurous Ain Helwan Baths (daily 24 hours; free) are less than 100m northwest of the same station; being outdoors, they are not used in winter, but the main building doubles up as a nightclub and restaurant.
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