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Caravans once prayed beside the Lake of the Pilgrims ( Birket el-Hagg) before embarking on their journey to Mecca. Today, alas, the "covered litters of the female pilgrims and the picturesque corps of mounted Bashi-Bazouks " no longer "moves slowly forward on its desert route". Instead, the barren wastes outside Cairo have for several decades harboured rocket ranges, chemical weapons factories and other military installations , rendering vast tracts off-limits. Ironically, much of this research was undertaken in collaboration with Iraq, Egypt's main Arab ally before the Gulf War, during which they fought on opposite sides.
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