Brass and Copper Ware
Egyptian craftsmen have been turning out brass and copper ware for over a thousand years, and aside from the tourist trade there's still a big domestic market for everything from banqueting trays to minaret finials. Amongst the items favoured as souvenirs are candlesticks, waterpipes, gongs, coffee sets, embossed plates and inlaid or repousse trays (the larger ones are often mounted on stands to serve as tables). All of these are manufactured and sold within the Khan, particularly along the stretch of Sharia al-Muizz just before Qalaoun's complex, known as the Coppersmiths Bazaar ( Souk al-Nahhasin). Although the Khan offers the best range of decorative pieces, it's cheaper to buy Turkish coffeepots and hookah pipes between the Ghuriya and the Bab Zwayla, along Ahmed Maher, or from workshops on Sharia Khulud and other streets around Ramses. Be sure that anything you intend to drink out of is lined with tin or silver, since brass and copper react with certain substances to form toxic compounds. Test waterpipes for leaky joints and remember to call them sheeshas or narghiles rather than hubbly bubblies (which signifies hashish-smoking). Two shops facing the Barquq complex specialize in waterpipes, backgammon boards and other coffee house sundries; proceeding north from there up Sharia al-Muizz, there's a passage on the left just before the Sabil-Kuttab of Abd al-Rahman that is full of shops selling pipes. Expect to pay GBPE30-70, depending on the size; the ones with stainless steel rather than brass fittings are better made and more durable.
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