Cinemas
Most of the older cinemas in downtown Cairo are Art Deco relics of the 1930s and '40s, purpose-built for foreigners and trashed by rioters on "Black Saturday" in 1952. Never properly refurbished and now distinctly seedy, they still attract huge, virtually all-male audiences, who cat-call at anything remotely risque. Lurid hoardings portray grotesquer versions of Hollywood mega-heroes, or the stock characters beloved of baladi films (indomitable matriarch, broken patriarch, star-crossed lovers, the hussy and the villain). Though foreign movies are shown throughout the year, there's most choice during winter and Ramadan; see listings in the Egyptian Gazette or Middle East Times. Because they're subtitled in Arabic, audiences chatter and vendors hawk snacks, drowning out the soundtrack - you have to sit near the front to hear anything. However, the last few years have seen an explosion of expensive new cinemas, most in shopping centres: Al-Tahrir Cinema on Sharia Tahrir, in Dokki (tel 335-4726; GBPE10-15); MGM on the top floor of the Maadi Grand Mall (tel 352-6095; GBPE15); and Ramses Hilton Centre, next to the hotel (tel 574-7435; GBPE25). All have plush seats, stereo sound, A/C (turned to arctic setting), and prohibit chattering and smoking. Elsewhere, it's usually okay to buy tickets (GBPE2.50-5) an hour or so beforehand, except during Ramadan, when extra evening showings draw full houses and the Metro Cinema on Talaat Harb screens a different movie every night (no reserved seats), as does the Al-Tahrir. To a greater or lesser extent, all films suffer from censorship , which sometimes leaves the plot in shreds. The only chance to view uncensored foreign movies comes during the Cairo International Film Festival , usually held during autumn or in December. Check the Egyptian Gazette or the tourist office for details.
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