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A three-hour journey from Cairo, Egypt's second city and summer capital embraces the Mediterranean with its sweeping Corniche. Alexandria has little to show for its ancient glory (personified by Cleopatra) or former decadence (celebrated by Lawrence Durrell), but its fresh seafood and cool breezes are delightful. However, with the discovery of Cleopatra's Palace on the ocean floor in Alex's Eastern Harbour there may soon be more to occupy visitors to Alex than a quick spin through the Greco-Roman museum and a literary pilgrimage around the haunts of Durrell, E.M. Forster and the poet Constantine Cavafy. The world's first underwater museum is planned for the remains of the royal enclosure, although it may be a few years before this comes to fruition. Alex can be reached by bus, train or service taxi. The Desert Road to Alex passes the turn-off for the fortified Monasteries of Wadi Natrun , which have long provided the Coptic Church's spiritual leadership. When not undergoing periodic fasts, the monks welcome pilgrims and other visitors. The most accessible of the monasteries are Deir Anba Bishoi and Deir al-Suryani , 10km from the rest stop on the highway (which can be reached by bus or service taxi from Cairo). To visit all four, it's best to rent a taxi or car for the day, either in Cairo or at the rest stop, which is roughly midway between Alexandria and Cairo. Unless you start very early or have a car, it's not really feasible to visit both Alexandria and the monasteries in one day
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